A shingle roof looks simple from the street. Up close, it is a system of layered materials, flashing details, and ventilation decisions that either work together for decades or fail early and expensively. Most homeowners only hire a shingle roofing contractor a few times in their lives, which makes the interview phase easy to rush and hard to revisit. Slow down. The questions you ask before signing a contract will determine how the next storm, the next hot summer, and the next real estate inspection go.
I have walked too many roofs where the shingles looked fine yet the plywood was soft at the eaves, or where the attic dripped with condensation even though the roof was “new.” Those problems didn’t come from bad luck. They came from shortcuts and misunderstandings that could have been caught with a better conversation up front.
Why the right contractor matters more than the shingle brand
People love to compare brands and series: laminated architectural shingles rated for 130 mph, algae-resistant coatings, impact ratings. All of that matters, but only after the foundational decisions are right. Roof shingle installation is sensitive to nail placement, deck preparation, flashing integration, and ventilation. A premium shingle lines up and nails itself in the brochure, but on a roof plane with a chimney, a dormer, three vents, and a shallow pitch, the craft shows.
I have replaced a 6-year-old roof that should have lasted 20 because a valley was woven incorrectly and funneled water under the shingles during wind-driven rain. Meanwhile, I have seen 20-year shingles push past 28 years because the installer took time to reflash a skylight correctly and adjusted intake ventilation to match the ridge vent. When you screen a shingle roofing contractor, you are really screening for judgement under variable field conditions, not just the ability to haul bundles and shoot nails.
Start with proof, not promises
Every contractor will tell you they are licensed, insured, and experienced. Ask for the documents and read them. Licensing is local, insurance coverage varies, and “experience” can mean very different things.
Ask for a copy of their general liability insurance, workers’ compensation policy, and state or municipal license. Verify the expiration dates and call the listed agent to confirm the policy is current. If the contractor says they are exempt from workers’ comp because they have no employees, ask who will be on your roof. Subcontractors must carry their own coverage, and you want certificates for each sub crew that will touch your job. If a worker falls or a ladder damages your neighbor’s window, you don’t want to discover gaps in coverage.
Experience should be relevant to your roof. A crew that mainly does steep, simple gables may struggle with a low-slope intersecting porch and a wide metal chimney. If you have a two-layer tear-off, cedar plank decking, or complex valleys, ask for photos and addresses of similar projects they have completed. A seasoned shingle roofing contractor will have a portfolio of comparable work and be able to describe the specific challenges they handled.
Don’t skip the roof and attic inspection
A proper bid starts with a careful inspection, not a quick count of squares from the driveway. The contractor should set a ladder, get on the roof, inspect the attic, and take notes. In the attic, they should look for daylight where it shouldn’t be, rusty nails indicating condensation, mold on the sheathing, and insulation that covers soffit vents. On the roof, they should probe for soft decking, check flashing conditions, and measure ventilation.
If they skip the attic, that’s a red flag. Many shingle roof problems begin under the deck. You can have a flawless shingle field and a failing roof because warm, moist air is trapped in the attic and condenses in winter. An honest contractor will talk about intake and exhaust ventilation, sometimes recommending baffles at the eaves, adding or unblocking soffit vents, or switching from static vents to a continuous ridge vent. They may also discuss deck condition. Old homes often have 1x plank decking with gaps; many modern shingle manufacturers require a solid, properly fastened deck. That can mean adding a layer of plywood over the planks, and you want that identified before the bid is finalized.
Make them explain their roof system, layer by layer
Shingles are just the top skin. Below them is where many roof failures start. Ask the contractor to walk you through their standard roof system, from the deck up. You want to hear specifics, not generalities.
Ice and water shield: In colder climates and along eaves anywhere ice damming can occur, a self-adhered membrane is essential. It should extend from the edge up past the interior wall line, typically 24 inches inside the warm wall, which often means 2 courses on a standard pitch. Expect it in valleys, around chimneys and skylights, and at low-slope sections. In hurricane-prone regions, some contractors cover the entire deck with peel-and-stick for secondary water protection. That has implications for attic moisture migration and future tear-offs, so ask why and how they manage ventilation if they suggest full coverage.
Underlayment: What type and weight will they use? Synthetic underlayments have become standard for their tear and UV resistance. Felt still has a place, but not the brittle low-weight rolls that turn to powder under heat. Ask about cap nails versus staples, especially on open roof days when wind can lift underlayment.
Starter strips: A real starter shingle at the eaves and rakes reduces wind lift. Flipped field shingles are a shortcut. Proper starter set back and adhesive placement matter for warranty compliance.
Drip edge: It should run along eaves and rakes, with the underlayment lapping correctly. Many failures start at the edge. Ask how they handle corners, whether they notch and overlap pieces, and what color options are available to match or trim your fascia.
Valleys: Open metal https://cruzpiyt376.wpsuo.com/best-practices-for-flashing-around-chimneys-on-shingle-roofs valleys shed water efficiently and are forgiving to debris. Woven valleys are common but can trap water and telegraph bumps under laminated shingles on colder days. California cuts have their place when done with precise overlaps. Ask which method they prefer and why. The answer should reference your roof’s pitch, tree cover, and regional weather, not just habit.
Flashing: Step flashing should be individual pieces integrated course by course where shingles meet walls. Continuous “L” flashing is a shortcut that tends to leak over time. Chimney flashing should be two-part, with step flashing tucked under counterflashing that is reglet-cut into mortar joints, not glued to brick. If a contractor says they “reuse flashing,” proceed carefully. Reuse is fine when the metal is robust and integration remains watertight, but most older flashing belongs in the scrap pile during roof shingle replacement.
Fasteners and nailing: Nail placement matters more than many homeowners realize. Shingles have a reinforced nail strip for a reason. Nails set too high void wind ratings, too low cause visible penetrations. Ask how they control depth on pneumatic guns. They should mention calibrated air pressure and depth settings, and slow, careful work on cold mornings when shingles are brittle.
Ventilation and penetrations: Balanced intake and exhaust keep the attic within a few degrees of ambient temperature year round. The contractor should calculate net free area, not just throw on a ridge vent because it looks good. If your soffits are blocked, a ridge vent can depressurize the attic and pull conditioned air from the house, which is the opposite of what you want. For pipes, expect new boots sized to each stack and sealed with compatible sealants, not smeared roofing cement. For satellite dishes or solar attachments, talk about relocating or remounting without perforating shingles in the wrong places.
Warranties, decoded
Roof warranties are marketing minefields. There are two broad categories: manufacturer warranties that cover defects in the shingles and contractor warranties that cover workmanship. A 30-year or “lifetime” shingle warranty does not protect against improper installation. If the crew misses the nail line or fails to reflash, the manufacturer will not pay to fix it.
Manufacturer system warranties usually require a specific combination of branded components: starters, underlayment, hip and ridge, vents. They also often require an authorized installer and a registered job. If you are paying for a system warranty upgrade, ask for the registration in writing, the exact coverage level, and the proration schedule. Many “lifetime” warranties are heavily prorated after the first decade and only cover replacement shingles, not labor, tear-off, or disposal.
Workmanship warranties range from one year to ten years or more. Longer is not always better. Look for clarity: what is covered, what triggers a claim, and how response times are handled. A local shingle roofing contractor who has been around for 20 years and stands behind a 5-year workmanship warranty may be more reliable than a new company promising 25 years on paper.
Tear-off versus overlay
On a budget, adding a second layer of shingles can look appealing. It is faster, cheaper, and avoids the mess. The trade-offs are real. Additional weight on older framing, shingles that do not lay flat over cupped or curled first layers, and no chance to inspect or repair the deck. Venting and flashing integration also suffer during overlays, especially at walls and chimneys. Most manufacturers allow one overlay, but many warranty tiers require a full tear-off. If you plan to stay in the home longer than three to five years, a tear-off is usually the smarter choice.
I have seen overlays hide chronic leaks that rotted decks under the valley boards. From the street the roof looked fine. Inside the attic, you could push a screwdriver through the wood. That homeowner paid for a second layer and then a full replacement two years later. If a contractor recommends an overlay, ask them to justify it based on your roof’s condition and provide a discounted cost for future tear-off so you know the real long-term number.
Timing, weather, and the open-roof plan
Roofing schedules chase weather, and the worst mistakes happen during rushed changeable days. Ask how they stage materials and what their plan is if a storm blows in. A competent crew will not remove more shingles than they can dry-in the same day. They will keep tarps on hand, but they will rely on proper underlayment, caps, and sequencing rather than trusting a blue tarp in a thunderstorm.
If you live in a hail region, early spring sees bookouts of two to eight weeks after a big storm. Good contractors will be honest about start windows and will not oversell capacity. If someone promises a start tomorrow when everyone else is three weeks out, ask how they manage crews and whether they use traveling storm chasers. Out-of-town crews can do good work, but warranty service gets complicated once they move on.
The bid should tell a story, not just a price
A useful bid breaks down labor, materials, and contingencies. It may not list every nail, but it should identify brand and series of the shingles, underlayment type, ventilation strategy, flashing scope, and the plan for rotten decking. A line item for “roof shingle repair of decking at unit price per sheet” is a wise inclusion. Rotten spots are common at eaves and valleys. If you price replacement per sheet of plywood with an agreed cost, you avoid arguments on the day of tear-off.
Beware of bids that look too generic. “Install new shingles” and a lump sum does not provide accountability later. Clarify disposal, magnet sweeping for nails, gutter protection during tear-off, and cleanup. If your landscaping is tight, ask about plywood paths, shrub covers, and driveway protection boards. A tidy, careful crew is obvious on day one. They stack tear-off neatly, they roll magnets morning and evening, and they leave fewer cigarette butts than they started with.
What about shingle roof repair versus replacement?
Not every aging roof needs replacement today. For isolated issues, roof shingle repair still makes sense: replacing a small damaged field, reseating lifted ridge caps, or refastening a loose flashing. The decision hinges on the roof’s overall age and condition, not just the symptom. If the shingles are in their back half of life, repairs can chase leaks for a year or two but rarely buy long-term peace. Heat-baked seal strips do not reseal well after lifting, and color matching becomes tricky after weathering.
Ask the contractor to price both options when appropriate: a repair now with an estimate of expected life remaining, and a full roof shingle replacement with a clear scope. I have advised homeowners to patch a puncture from a fallen limb and plan a full replacement after winter, saving money by scheduling in the contractor’s slower shoulder season. A good contractor will give you that range and not force a replacement prematurely.
Regional specifics matter
A shingle roof in coastal Florida faces uplift and wind-driven rain. In Minnesota, ice damming and freeze-thaw cycles rule. In the Southwest, UV and thermal expansion beat up asphalt. Ask how the contractor builds for your region.
In cold climates, ice and water shield placement and attic air sealing are pivotal. In hot climates, lighter shingle colors and adequate soffit intake reduce heat load in the attic. In high-wind zones, six nails per shingle, proper starter alignment at rakes, and enhanced nailing patterns along eaves and ridges make a measurable difference. A shingle roofing contractor who knows your local code beyond the minimums will speak to these details fluently and suggest small upgrades that have big payoffs.
Ventilation and attic health are part of the contract
Roofers sometimes treat attic conditions as someone else’s problem. That is a mistake. A healthy attic extends the life of a shingle roof and protects the structure. Ask whether they will check for baffle placement at soffits, verify unobstructed intake, and adjust exhaust to match. The net free area of intake should roughly equal that of exhaust. If your attic currently has multiple exhaust types, such as a powered fan, box vents, and a planned ridge vent, the contractor should consolidate and avoid mixed systems that short-circuit airflow.
If bathroom or kitchen fans vent into the attic, insist on corrections during the job. Moist air vented under the deck rots wood and feeds mold. This is the perfect time to run proper ducts to roof caps and seal penetrations. Small changes here save thousands later.
References that mean something
References matter when they are recent, local, and similar to your project. Ask for three addresses from the past 12 months, preferably jobs with similar complexity: skylights, dormers, low-slope additions. Drive by and look at details: straight courses, clean cut lines, tidy ridge caps, consistent color batches. If the homeowner will talk, ask how the crew treated the property, whether the final bill matched the bid, and how the contractor handled small issues after payment.
Online reviews help, but they reward charisma and speed more than craft. A perfect score is not necessary. What you want are patterns: clear communication, steady scheduling, honest change orders, solid cleanup, and responsive service when a small leak appeared near a tricky chimney. The best shingle roofing contractors will have a few stories where something went wrong and they fixed it quickly.
The insurance claim wrinkle
After hail or wind, many homeowners navigate insurance claims. Contractors who “work with insurance” range from helpful to pushy. A good contractor will document damage with photos, provide a clear scope aligned with your policy’s line items, and meet the adjuster as needed. They will not inflate damage or pressure you to sign over your entire claim with vague promises of “free upgrades.”
Be clear about deductible responsibility. In most states, it is illegal for a contractor to cover your deductible. Clarify supplements too. If additional damage is discovered during tear-off, the contractor should document, submit, and discuss it with you before proceeding. Your contract should allow you to cancel without penalty if the insurance settlement does not cover the agreed scope, rather than locking you into a number that no longer fits.
Materials: beyond the shingle
The shingle brand is one choice among many. Hip and ridge caps are thicker and pre-bent versions of shingles that help resist wind at the most exposed part of the roof. Underlayment quality varies widely. Vent products can be cheap plastic or robust, low-profile systems that withstand UV and storms. Ask for model names, not generic terms. A contractor who selects matching components from a manufacturer’s system often reduces warranty conflicts. If they mix and match, make sure the interactions are understood. For example, not all ridge vents perform equally under wind-driven rain, and not all synthetic underlayments hold nails the same on hot days.
Consider algae resistance if you live in humid regions. Streaks on the north side of roofs come from airborne algae feeding on limestone filler. AR shingles use copper granules to slow growth. It doesn’t change performance much, but it keeps the roof looking younger longer. For impact resistance, Class 4 shingles improve hail durability. They are not indestructible, but they reduce granule loss and bruising. Some insurers offer discounts for Class 4. Ask your agent, and if you go that route, ensure the contractor follows required fastener patterns to keep the rating valid.
Red flags you can spot in five minutes
You can assess a lot with your eyes and a few questions. If the truck shows up with ladders missing feet and ropes that have seen better decades, that tells you about safety and maintenance. If the salesperson cannot answer basic questions about ventilation or valley methods without calling someone, you are probably dealing with a volume shop that outsources quality to luck.
Cash-only pressure, door-to-door canvassing after storms with same-day contracts, and refusal to provide a physical address are all caution signs. A contractor who won’t show you their certificate of insurance is one you should not hire. A bid far lower than the pack often means thin material choices, uninsured labor, or minimal supervision. You may save up front and spend more later.
What a good day on site looks like
When a crew runs well, you feel it by noon. They start early, set ladders safely, and tarp over landscaping and pool areas. Tear-off is staged, not chaotic. Underlayment goes down tight and flat with cap nails, not staples, and they do not walk past an exposed seam to chase lunch. Flashing goes in course by course. They adjust ridge vent placement to match framing and keep nails out of the open ridgeline. Debris is corralled, magnet rollers sweep walkways twice, and the foreman keeps you updated without drama.
I remember a spring job where we found two unexpected soft spots, both hidden under eaves. We paused to photograph, showed the homeowner, and replaced two sheets of plywood at the agreed unit price. We finished a day later than planned because we refused to leave the ridge open under a doubtful forecast. The homeowner thanked us for the extra caution, not the speed.
A simple set of questions to organize your decision
Use these as a quick cross-check after your conversations. Keep it short and specific.
- Will you inspect both the roof and the attic, and provide photos of any issues? What exact components will you install, by brand and model, including underlayment, ice and water shield, flashing, vents, starter, and hip and ridge? How will you handle ventilation balance, and will you correct blocked soffits or mixed exhaust types? What is your workmanship warranty, what does it cover, and how do I make a claim? Can you provide proof of insurance, licenses, and three recent local references for similar jobs?
Price versus value, and the cost of silence
You will likely receive three to five bids with a spread that surprises you. The lowest number is tempting. The highest may come with a heavy presentation. Set all the prices aside for fifteen minutes and compare the stories they tell: who looked in the attic, who addressed your specific roof details, who provided a clean scope with clear materials, and who welcomed your questions without dancing around them. The right shingle roofing contractor will make you feel informed, not dazzled, and they will leave fewer unknowns.
If their bid is a page of fluff, ask for details. If they dodge, move on. Most roof problems I’m called to repair could have been avoided with one more question before the first nail went in. Roof shingle repair after the fact is always more disruptive than getting roof shingle installation right the first time.
When you should wait
Sometimes the best move is to delay a roof shingle replacement by a season. If your shingles are aging but sound, and you plan to add solar in six months, coordinate so the attachments sit on a new roof. If your attic needs significant air sealing and insulation work, consider doing that before or immediately after the new roof so ventilation is balanced and ice dams do not surprise you next winter. Work with a contractor who sees the house as a system. They will sequence tasks to protect the roof and your wallet.
The quiet questions that reveal character
One last set of questions does not show up on most checklists. Ask who will be in charge on site and how many crews they run simultaneously. Ask how they train new installers, whether they hold morning stretch-and-safety talks, and what their average tenure is for crew leads. Craft lives in the people on the roof. A contractor who invests in training, safety, and stable crews tends to invest in you as well.
Ask how they handle small callbacks. Every contractor gets them. The best schedule a prompt visit, diagnose without defensiveness, and fix what needs fixing. If they tell you they never have callbacks, they are either fibbing or not paying attention.
A shingle roof should become something you don’t think about. You get there by hiring a partner who respects the parts you do not see and answers the questions you didn’t know to ask. Take the time to interview well. The gutter line, the attic air, and your future self will thank you.
Express Roofing Supply
Address: 1790 SW 30th Ave, Hallandale Beach, FL 33009
Phone: (954) 477-7703
Website: https://www.expressroofsupply.com/
FAQ About Roof Repair
How much should it cost to repair a roof? Minor repairs (sealant, a few shingles, small flashing fixes) typically run $150–$600, moderate repairs (leaks, larger flashing/vent issues) are often $400–$1,500, and extensive repairs (structural or widespread damage) can be $1,500–$5,000+; actual pricing varies by material, roof pitch, access, and local labor rates.
How much does it roughly cost to fix a roof? As a rough rule of thumb, plan around $3–$12 per square foot for common repairs, with asphalt generally at the lower end and tile/metal at the higher end; expect trip minimums and emergency fees to increase the total.
What is the most common roof repair? Replacing damaged or missing shingles/tiles and fixing flashing around chimneys, skylights, and vents are the most common repairs, since these areas are frequent sources of leaks.
Can you repair a roof without replacing it? Yes—if the damage is localized and the underlying decking and structure are sound, targeted repairs (patching, flashing replacement, shingle swaps) can restore performance without a full replacement.
Can you repair just a section of a roof? Yes—partial repairs or “sectional” reroofs are common for isolated damage; ensure materials match (age, color, profile) and that transitions are properly flashed to avoid future leaks.
Can a handyman do roof repairs? A handyman can handle small, simple fixes, but for leak diagnosis, flashing work, structural issues, or warranty-covered roofs, it’s safer to hire a licensed roofing contractor for proper materials, safety, and documentation.
Does homeowners insurance cover roof repair? Usually only for sudden, accidental damage (e.g., wind, hail, falling tree limbs) and not for wear-and-tear or neglect; coverage specifics, deductibles, and documentation requirements vary by policy—check your insurer before starting work.
What is the best time of year for roof repair? Dry, mild weather is ideal—often late spring through early fall; in warmer climates, schedule repairs for the dry season and avoid periods with heavy rain, high winds, or freezing temperatures for best adhesion and safety.